12 Hours in Buenos Aires

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9pm: Now the moment you’ve been waiting for: the world-famous gaucho steak of Buenos Aires. One of the best: La Cabrera (parrillalacabrera.com). Start out with an appetiser of Jamon Crudo, and then move on to the Bife de Chorizo, a giant piece of steak that is so soft your waiter will cut it for you with a spoon.

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7pm: Resist the urge: it’s just too early to go to dinner. Argentines are night-owls, and at this time most of the restaurants won’t even be open. Instead, enjoy the fading sunlight on the rooftop of Bar Antares in Palermo de Soho (cervezaantares.com), where they pair dark, cold beers with eclectic music in a low-key setting.

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6pm: After walking all afternoon, nothing could be better than a scoop (or two) of Gelato. Head to Palermo de Soho and visit Persicco (persicco.com), their dulce de leche flavour ice cream is unbeatable.

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5pm: Walk down the Avenida to Argentina’s presidential palace, La Casa Rosada (presidencia.gob.ar). Its trademark pink walls were supposedly painted with white paint tinted with pig’s blood. The northern balcony is the one from which Evita was known to speak to the people.

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4pm: Sit and enjoy a glass of Malbec at Cafe Tortoni ( cafetortoni.com.ar), Argentina’s most famous Tango Academy. Call ahead to arrange a class, or just watch the dancers from the comfort of your table.

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One of the famous street’s most interesting landmarks is the Palacio Barolo (pbarolo.com.ar), an architectural masterpiece built during the second world war to hold the remains of Dante Allegheri – but his body was never sent there. The facade is designed to reflect the three locales of the poet’s Divine Comedy, Inferno, Purgatorio, and Paradiso.

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3pm: After filling up, walk east just a few blocks, and see the Obelisk of Buenos Aires; you won’t miss it. Then head a few blocks south, to Avenida de Mayo.

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1:30pm: When it comes to Argentine food, two things come to mind: steak (that will come later) and great Italian food. Argentina is considered a country of immigrants, and many of them came from Italy in the mid-nineteenth century, so when they came, they brought their love of pizza with them. Prove this point at Pizzeria Güerrin (Tel +54 4371 8141) on Avenue Corrientes.

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12:30pm: On your way out of the cemetery, check out La Feria Recoleta, a market featuring local crafts, jewellery, and light snacks. If you’re lucky, you may see street-performance tango dancing. Then see the nearby Iglesia de Nuestra Senora del Pilar, a church built in the early 18th Century by a now-disbanded order of monks.

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10am: Take the subway to Recoleta and visit the massive Cementario de Recoleta. Set over 15 acres, this is a veritable city of tombs and mausoleums, holding Argentina’s most respected politicians, artists, generals, and writers. It may take some searching, but make sure to pay your respects at the tomb of Eva Peron.

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9am: Start your day with a light breakfast at Porota (porota.com), a cafe in Palermo. Argentine breakfasts are simple affairs: coffee or tea and a pastry. If you’ve got a sweet tooth, make sure the pastry comes with Dulce de Leche, Argentina’s famous caramel.